In order to exceed the expectations of our customers, Tear Têxtil starts the process controls from the time of cotton acquisition. At this stage we evaluate the results of the HVI, which include resistance, color, elongation, length, impurity level, fineness (micronaire), and fiber staining.
With this control we organize our storage and selection of the mixture. We prioritize the purchase of cotton from certified cotton (BCI)
Better Cotton Initiative, which seeks to promote the growth and sustainable production of cotton.
After the production of the wires we continue with our tests and process controls, we evaluate the coefficient of variation of the mass, fine points, thick points, Neps, pilosities, stretching, (RKM) resistance and, through the seriplanos the appearance visual. Using chemical processes, we benefit the fabric to achieve the desired results regarding the residual of gum, pH, white degree and hydrophilicity.
Through tests we certify the results of solidity, friction of prints, resistance to rupture, dimensional stability, stretch, stretching, weight, width and skew / movement.
These controls and process auditing, provide us finished fabrics with QUALITY.
I . Technical specifications
Standard: ABNT NBR 13484: 2004. – Flat Fabrics – Methods of classification based on inspection by score of defects.
Defects: Non-compliance occurred during the processes, altering the quality and / or the visual of the final product.
Punctuation:Numerical value based on the quantity, size and severity of defects pointed out during a visual inspection.
Inspection: The process of measuring, examining, testing, or comparing a characteristic or property of a material with applicable requirements through visual examination.
2.1 They will be classified according to their extension, by “scoring system / 100sqm, in the sense of Trama and in the direction of Urdume.
PUNCTUATION OF DEFECT
|SIZE OF DEFECTS||PUNCTUATION|
|Up to 7.5 cm||1|
|From 7.6 cm to 15.0 cm||2|
|From 15.1 cm to 23.0 cm||3|
|Above 23.1 cm||4|
Points / 100² = Total points per linear meter inspected x 100
Fabric Width in x linear meters inspected
2.2 The first quality shall be considered pieces of fabric whose maximum limit meets the parameters of the table below:
|Feature||Nº of Points per 100m²|
|1ª Quality||2ª Quality|
|INDIGO||Maximum 14||Above 14|
|NAO INDIGO||Maximum 14||Above 14|
2.3. All visible defects in the fabric will be punctured both in the warp and in the weft sense. When concentrated within the same meter, defects should be scored, penalizing 4 points.
2.4. No meter of fabric will be penalized with more than 4 stitches.
2.5. Continuous defects of up to 3 meters, in the same direction of the warp, will be accepted every meter or fraction will be penalized with 4 points.
2.6. In the fashion line defects that disappear after washing and that are dispersed throughout the fabric, can be sent without punctuation, provided they are with the information “Disappears after Washing”.
The maximum allowable variation is:
- Of ± 2 cm from the standard value (nominal) indicated on the label for 100% cotton articles.
- Of ± 3 cm from the nominal (nominal) value indicated on the label, for indigo articles with stretch.
- Of ± 3 cm from the standard value (nominal) indicated on the label for red / stretch-stamped articles.
- We adopted the standard NBR 10591 that allows a variation of ± 5% of the weight indicated in the table of technical specifications.
- The length specified on the roller labels may contain a ± 1% offset.
3.4 Classification of Nuances
The nuances classification is performed by the “letters” system. This classification of nuances is orientative, not allowing mixing of rolls, even with equal nuances.
3.5 Frame / Twist Deviation
The maximum 3% torsion of the parts was allowed in relation to the length after washing.
3.6 Dimensional Change
See table of technical specifications of the products.
4 – Nuance per Order
|METRAGE||NUANCE||MINIMUM PERFORMANCE BY NUANCE|
|501 to 5000||Up to 8||500|
|ABOVE 5001||Up to 12||500|
4.2 Not Indigo
|METRAGE||NUANCE||MINIMUM PERFORMANCE BY NUANCE|
|301 to 5000||Up to 8||300|
|ABOVE 5001||Up to 12||300|
5 – Packing for Commercial Cutting
Commercial Cutting Plan for 1st Quality Fabrics
Standard for rolls of 100 meters:
- For rolls with footage from 65 to 109.99 meters.
- Each roll may contain 1 cut of fabric.
- The smallest piece should be at least 15 meters and the same nuance.
- The minimum length of the largest piece should be 50 meters.
- The sum of the footage of the pieces should be from 66 to 110 meters.
Standard 50 meter rolls:
- Each roll can have a maximum of 1 cut and pieces with footage from 40 to 64.99 meters. Being the smallest piece above 15 meters.
30-meter roller pattern:
- Each roll can have a maximum of 1 cut with footage from 20 to 39.99 meters. Being the smallest piece above 7 meters.
Standard rolls of 15 meters:
- For this pattern the rollers can not be cut. Footage from 5 to 19.99 meters.
Note: The labels will identify the number of cuts on the rollers.
Special / Exclusive Orders:
Special / exclusive orders will be negotiated and complied with according to the commercial agreement, regarding packaging and nuances.
6 – Enfesto and Confecção
- Our classification of nuances is orientative, we recommend not to mix rolls during the processes of infestation and confection.
- Fabrics with elastane should be rested for 24 hours after being licked. Overlap a maximum of 3 pieces.
Lines, needles and fabric weight must be compatible. For articles with elastane or high weft density we suggest some care in the sewing process:
- Use “SES” or “SUK” medium ball tip needle.
- Use thinner needles for each process.
- Use lines and dots compatible with the weight and composition of the article.
7 – Storage
- The maximum height of the fabric stack should be 1.20 m.
- We recommend using the PEPS system (First in and First Out) for stock movements.
- Do not use knives or sharp materials to unpack tissues.
- Fabrics that are not used after opening the carton should be resealed to avoid getting moisture or dirt from the environment.
- Keep rolls of tissue sheltered from light and moisture.
- Do not damage or discard the roller identification label.
- We recommend storing the rolls of fabric leaving the labels visible to make it easier to identify the roll.
8 – Receipt
In the delivery of the fabric it is necessary to observe, the way the rolls were conditioned during the transport. Check for tampering, wet, punctured, missing, or damaged. The problem must be brought to the attention of the carrier and informed to Tear Textile.
Under no circumstances should the rollers be thrown, avoiding the kneading of the eyebrows, which are detrimental to the moment of punching / cutting.
9 – Complaints
All complaints must be passed to the Tear Textile representative and a standard internal “SAC” form will be completed.
All analyzes will be done through samples sent by the customer or representatives.
All samples must be submitted with the following information:
Claimed roll label, with bar code and respective invoice.
This information is important for reviewing the complaint. In the absence of this information, they will be subject to internal identification processes, which may delay the analysis and resolution of the problem.
The maximum deadline for complaint is 180 days from the date of invoicing / shipment.
For the evaluation of shrinkage, resistance and skew complaints, Tear Têxtil’s laboratory requests the sending of the unprocessed samples along with the part to be analyzed.
In the case of a claim that is unfounded, the costs generated by re-inspection and analysis will be debited to the buyer.
In case of finished or finished parts, the claim will only be accepted if the quantity exceeds 5% of the total of the cuts referring to the invoice claimed. This condition will only be accepted if in the cutting process the customer has extracted all defects marked 3 and 4 points from each roll.
The customer may also request Tear Textile’s technical visit through the representatives.